Discretely situated opposite Canning Town tube station amidst the thrusting sky scrapers of East London’s docklands, Pepenero is that most desirable find – a simple old fashioned Italian with great food and great service.
Only a mile away from the modern hustle and bustle of Shoreditch’s trendy new wave of cutting edge eateries, Pepenero (“Peppies” to the locals) is always buzzing and enjoys a celebrity clientele including Eastenders actors such as Billy Murray and Danny Dyer and boxer Frank Bruno.
The smiling owner Mehmet is also the manager and overseas a busy staff. Trappings are burgundy velvet and white tablecloths: its one step past retro but never descends into kitsch.
For starters, calamari and scallops vie for attention with salads and spare ribs. It’s all proper comfort food and the portions are large. The main courses are similarly robust and pasta dishes are excellent, fresh and filling. The seafood pastas are particularly good, with juicy king prawns popping in the mouth. The standout, however, are the pizzas – imagine a juicier Franco Manca with better ingredients. There are 21 on the menu and the more adventurous diner can go bespoke without any hassle.
Puddings, all fresh, are indulgent and luxurious with Profiteroles and Tiramisu the stand outs. Memhet is there again, still smiling, to offer coffee or a brandy. The wine list is excellent too – all deep, oaky reds and crisp whites, though the house red (a 2015 Sangiovese del Rubicone) is exceedingly drinkable at just £17 per bottle.
If you yearn for food like Mamma used to make, there’s no better Italian in East London than Pepenero. Prices are decidedly tasty too, working out around £30 per head. Whether you’ve finished a tough day after work in Canary Wharf or fancy a trip in from Essex for a taste of The City, Pepenero is well worth the trip. Booking is recommended, however, as the locals make good use of this well kept East End secret.
